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Does your muzzleloader’s performance leave something to be desired? If so, it very likely could be your loading procedure! Here’s a method that could make your gun, all it can be.
Of course, you have to start with a gun that is capable of making accurate shots. There are a number of them out there but I have been shooting the T/C Encore for a while now and it will shoot 1.5” groups at 100yds pretty easily with an occasional 1” group mixed in. Next you are going to need a solid bench to shoot from, along with some sand bags or an adjustable shooting rest. These are the basic foundation you need to begin with.
- Bullet selection is another key to accuracy and performance!
There has been some real advances in muzzleload bullets in recent years. Among the best of these are the latest designs with polymer ballistic tips like the Hornaday SST and the Thompson Center Shockwave. I can personally vouch for the Shockwaves. I have never seen a better performing muzzleload bullet, both in accuracy and game stopping ability.
My personal load consists of 118gr of loose Pyrodex, a 200gr Shockwave and Remington 209 primers. I’m getting some extremely good accuracy with this load.
I would have to say that most people seem to like the heavier, 250 gr. bullet for some reason. However, I prefer the flatter trajectory and increased velocity of the 200’s. A muzzleloader’s projectile is already a relatively slow moving bullet by nature. The more you can bump up the velocity the better the bullets expansion & performance will be on game.
The exact steps you take in loading your gun will make all the difference in the results you get down range.
You have a great gun and quality bullets but how do you go about getting that bullet in the gun?
A muzzleloader is much like archery equipment from the respect that you must prepare and execute each shot exactly the same each time to get consistent results between shots.
I was recently reminded of this fact when I started experiencing fliers in my own groups. I had changed my loading procedure from my old tried and true spit patch method to a technique a good hunting friend of mine was using. He swabs his barrel clean between shots with a solvent patch then follows up with dry patch so he is shooting from an un-fowled barrel on each shot. He reasoned that with no fowling you should have a consistent barrel.
Unfortunately, for me it worked better in theory than in reality. My feeling on the matter is that it is difficult to remove all the solvent and any residual acts like a lubricant. The effect varies, producing inconsistent results.
Also, find some quality cotton patches, I recently purchased some CVA patches and they are terrible. They are to loose and have to be doubled and are stretchy. I expect they are not “made in USA.”
This technique is pretty simple and is also something you can do on a hunt, in the field. With a fowled barrel, you simply wet a clean patch with some Sylvia, swab the barrel and then follow up with a dry patch. I like to use approximately the same number of strokes on each swab. Now you’re ready to re-load.
Shooting from a slightly fowled barrel also produces a tighter fit with the bullet and slightly more resistance as the bullet passes down the barrel. This increases the barrel pressure and bullet velocity. You will notice your point of impact is 2.5-3" higher than shooting from a clean barrel.
Another important step is seating the bullet. This also needs to be consistent. How tightly the propellant is compressed by the bullet will also effect the shot.
All shots were at 100 yds.
#3,4 & 5 produced a 1.5” group
I adjusted 8 clicks down
#6, 7 & 8 produced a 1.25” group
I am not sure what produced the shift of the second group to the left
but I believe it is an issue with the scope itself as the groups are just to tight and consistent to suggest otherwise.
- Will your gun go bang when it counts the most?
I cannot stress this point enough, if you do not clear the barrel of all solvent and oil there is a good chance that your gun will not fire when you need it most. The only way I know to guarantee this is to pour about 10-15 grains of powder down the barrel and fire off a cap. If you get a flame out the end of the barrel you know with all confidence that all residue is burned off.
Now you’re ready to load for the hunt. Just follow the spit patch procedure as outlined above and you will not have any nagging worries of the dreaded FTF.
If you are having problems with consistency with you muzzleloader, give this loading technique a try, I expect it will solve your problem.
Best of Hunts,
Larry Stephens
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